Indigenous Ice Cream @ Taya Po Po Atayal Restaurant, Wulai |烏來老店泰雅婆婆的原住民冰淇淋 (烏來)

對我來說,台灣最棒的地方之一就是位於新北市的烏來。在這個人口才6000的小鎮,你可以脫離擁擠喧囂的都市環境、呼吸一下清新的空氣、欣賞蒼翠的山景、走走森林步道……

Wulai Township is one of my favourite places in Taiwan. This tiny village of 6,000 is a very special place where you can get away from the city, breathe clean air, enjoy a lush mountain landscape, hike in the woods…

IMG_0813

……可以泡天然溫泉……

…soak in natural hot springs…

IMG_0820

……也可以品嘗台灣最讚的當地美食食!烏來老街兩邊是一排排賣各種當地小吃的餐廳與小攤子,主要的是本區泰雅族原住民的傳統料理。

…and try some of Taiwan’s best local cuisine. Wulai Old Street is packed with restaurants and snack vendors offering all kinds of delicious local treats – especially the traditional cuisine of the local Atayal indigenous group.

2014-02-12 15.51.46

蘇迪勒颱風過後,我首次回烏來。颱風所造成的土石流不僅造成傷亡,還毀滅了許多道路、住宅與商店。颱風過後聯外交通中斷,目前還在修理中,讓以觀光行業為重的無賴受到不少影響。

I just went to Wulai again for the first time since Typhoon Soudelor, which triggered landslides that killed several people and destroyed roads, homes, and businesses. The town was inaccessible for over a week following the landslides, and repairs are ongoing. This tourism-dependent community is struggling to rebuild and needs our love and support!

泰雅婆婆是烏來老街最有名的原住民料理餐廳之一。我平常吃他們的特殊涼拌檳榔花和小米飯,但我這次去,是他們的寫著”新品冰淇淋”的大紅牌caught my eye。他們目前有小米與馬告(山胡椒)兩款口味,都是泰雅族傳統料理常用的,產於本區的食材。這是我第一次看到這些料使用在冰淇淋上,感覺很創意,讓我看得很興奮!

Taiya Po Po is one of Wulai’s most famous Atayal restaurants. I usually come for their amazing betel flower salad and millet sticky rice (check out this great blog post for more about their food). However, yesterday it was their big red ice cream sign that caught my eye! They’re currently offering two flavours: millet (小米) and may chang pepper (Litsea cubeba, 馬告/山胡椒), which are both locally-grown products that feature in traditional Atayal cuisine. I’ve never seen either of these flavours in ice cream before and I was super excited to try them!

雖然冰淇淋都是外帶杯裝的,看起來好像是商店買來的,但它是現場做的。每一杯大概125ml,價位不高,一杯才NT$30,不到一半手工冰淇淋的一半,真的很便宜!

The ice cream is prepared on-site in large batches and sold in take out containers. Each cup is about 125 ml, but the cost is super low – only NT$30 per cup. That’s less than half the price of most handmade ice cream I’ve tried.

馬告的很特別,有點像花椒,味道蠻重,又辣又麻,但不會像花椒一樣帶來長時間的奇怪回味。烏來老街的許多店有販賣新鮮、乾燥和鹽漬馬告(像以上的照片),還有馬告做的辣椒醬、花生、豆干等等小吃與產品。但據我所知泰雅婆婆是唯一地方買得到馬告冰淇淋!

May chang has a very unique and assertive flavour, spicy and menthol-y at the same time. Its unique fire-and-ice character reminds me a lot of Sichuan pepper, but without the weird long-lasting aftertaste. Many Wulai vendors sell fresh, dried and pickled may chang, like the jars above. You can also get may chang hot sauce and snacks like may chang-flavoured peanuts and dried toufu (豆干). But Taya Popo is the only place where you can get may chang ice cream!

好吧,泰雅婆婆的冰淇淋不僅是當地食材做的,且又獨特又便宜,可是它吃起來如何?說實話,它遠遠不是我吃過最專業的冰淇淋,因為泰雅婆婆是熱食為重的店,而不是冰品專賣。冰淇淋口感不太滑順,剛剛從冰箱拿出來了冰得很硬,不好挖,要先放置讓它開始稍微融化,會變得較軟,但口感還是有點酥鬆,像綿綿冰,外表又融化得很快。吃起來新鮮美味,糖度跟油脂剛剛好,清爽不膩口。馬告的味道並不重,雖然可以吃得出來,又看得到冰淇淋裡面的馬告碎塊,但只足以吃得到它的新鮮麻味與檸檬般的回味,美有甚麼辣的感覺。偏重口味的我,覺得多加一點馬告會更好吃,但怕辣的人可以接受。

So it’s local, unique, and affordable –  how does it taste? To be honest, it’s not the most professional ice cream I’ve ever had – Taiya Popo specializes in frying things, not freezing them. The texture isn’t very smooth – frozen solid at first, the ice cream becomes a little granular and flaky as it thaws, while the outside melts quickly. However, the flavour is lovely, and the sugar and fat are nicely balanced. You can see bits of ground may chang throughout the ice cream, but they used a pretty light touch. There’s only enough may chang for a burst of citrusy-minty freshness – not enough for it to show its fiery side. I’d have liked to kick it up a notch, but it’s quite approachable for people with lighter tastes.

小米是泰雅族很重要的主食,也是烏來老街的名產。小米飯、小米麻糬、小米露、小米粥、小米酒等等,都是烏來老街的人氣名產。

Millet is a staple of the traditional Atayal diet and is a star ingredient in Wulai. Millet sticky rice, millet wine, millet milk, millet porridge, and millet mochi are popular products here.

不過,泰雅婆婆好像還是烏來老街唯一買得到小米冰淇淋的店! 我問店員冰淇淋是否是現場做的,他們說是,但從小米冰淇淋的標籤來看,這好像是買來或外包做的。馬告冰淇淋沒有這個標籤,所以可能只有馬告口味才是現場做的。反正還是當地的,也是蠻好吃!

But again, Taiya Po Po seems to be the only place in Wulai where you’ll find millet ice cream! When I asked the staff if their ice cream was made in-house, they said it was, but the millet ice cream’s label seems to indicate it was made in Nantou, so it’s either resold or outsourced. The may chang ice cream has no label, so maybe that one is made on-site. In any case, it’s still a local product, and it’s just as tasty!

小米冰淇淋的味道居然比馬告冰淇淋重,甜度比較高,帶有淡淡的小米香味,還吃得到軟軟的煮熟小米顆粒,很好吃! 小米冰淇淋的口感跟馬告冰淇淋一樣,偏乾,剛出冰箱時冰得酥酥的,好像是以同樣的冰淇淋基底做的,就是很典型的台式冰淇淋,低脂多冰,很清爽。如果想吃濃郁滑順的義式冰淇淋的話,這不會成為你最愛的冰淇淋,但喜歡口味偏輕的,或喜歡品嘗新鮮的朋友一定要去泰雅婆婆吃吃看!

Unexpectedly, the millet ice cream is more flavourful than the may chang – a little sweeter, and with a nice nutty richness. It’s textured with tiny whole millet grains, cooked until soft.Both ice creams have the same texture – a little dry and flaky – so they’re probably made with the same base. Light and icy, they’re typical Taiwanese-style ice creams. If you’re looking for rich and creamy European-style gelato, this won’t be your favourite, but if you have lighter tastes and like trying new things, you should definitely go to Taiya Po Po and give it a try!

 

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s