Beimen Pineapple Ice (Da’an, Taipei) | 北門鳳梨冰 (台北大安)

我好像很久沒寫台北市區內的冰淇淋店,為了能夠挖掘沒寫過的冰淇淋店冰淇淋越吃越遠。不過,多虧好心讀者的推薦,我最近發現了敦南商圈有一家還在等待我發現的隱藏冰淇淋寶藏⌈北門鳳梨冰⌋,這家店對我來說很有特色,令我很興奮!

It’s been a while since I wrote about a place in central Taipei – lately it seems I have to go further and further afield to find new ice cream shops to write about. However, thanks to a tip-off from a reader, I’ve found a hidden gem in the  middle of DunNan shopping district that I’m really excited about: Beimen Pineapple Ice!

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⌈北門鳳梨冰⌋出生於宜蘭市,老闆希望擺脫一般充滿化學乳化劑和香料的冰淇淋食譜,以儘量天然的製造方式做冰淇淋,所以他們來台北創業。位於延吉街旁邊小巷子裡的⌈北門鳳梨冰⌋,離出名老冰店⌈東區粉園⌋和觀光客喜愛的⌈ICE MONSTER⌋沒有幾步距離,你可能會假設這兩家名店是⌈北門鳳梨冰⌋的主要競爭對手,但⌈北門鳳梨冰⌋可不這麼想,因為他們對自己的產品很有自信,而且他們賣的東西跟別家不一樣,每一家賣都有各自的優勢,每一家賣的東西都好吃。他們很樂意讚美⌈東區粉園⌋的剉冰跟⌈ICE MONSTER⌋的芒果冰美味精緻,還承認他們偶爾想要吃跟自己賣的東西不一樣就會去那吃!

Beimen Pineapple Ice began its life in Yilan. The owners wanted to move away from conventional recipes with chemical thickeners and flavourings, so they started their own shop in Taipei. It’s in an alley just across the street from the famous Eastside Tapioca Ice (東區粉圓) and just around the corner from from tourist-clogged Ice Monster. These famous shops would be formidable rivals if they actually were rivals, but Beimen’s owners don’t see it that way. Confident in their own product, they cheerfully praise their competitors’ high-quality shaved ices and mango sorbets, and admit to being occasional customers when they want to taste something different from their own product!

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⌈北門鳳梨冰⌋的特色產品,其實不太算是冰淇淋的一種,而是台灣獨有的另類冰淇淋品種,叫做⌈綿綿冰⌋。綿綿冰是台灣古早味的冰品,簡單又傳統,我寫過兩家綿綿冰店(船來芋頭冰台灣純手工冰淇淋),但⌈北門鳳梨冰⌋跟他們不一樣,因為他們的綿綿冰製造方式是完全不加牛奶。沒錯–這裡的冰全部都是純素的!台灣早期,鮮乳被視為奢侈品,而且在台灣悶熱的夏天,大家沒胃口吃很油膩的高乳脂冰淇淋,所以台灣傳統冰淇淋平常不含或少含牛奶,低糖低脂,水分偏高。

The specialty at Beimen Pineapple Ice is a uniquely Taiwanese variation of ice cream called “mian mian bing” (綿綿冰), or “creamy ice”. Another thing that makes this shop special is that, unlike other mian mian bing shops I’ve written about (Boat Come Taro Ice, Taiwan Pure Handmade Ice Cream), they make their ice entirely without dairy. That’s right – everything at Beimen Pineapple Ice is vegan! Milk was an expensive luxury for Taiwan’s earlier generations, and a bellyful of butterfat is hardly a refreshing treat in Taiwan’s muggy subtropical summers anyway, so the most traditional Taiwan-style ice creams tend to contain little or no dairy. Their water content is higher and sugar and fat content are also much lower than traditional ice creams.

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⌈北門鳳梨冰⌋的使命是以合理的價格提供高品質的食品。他們使用的製造方式與採選的食材都非常簡單,店內裝潢得再也簡約不過,白色牆壁光禿禿的,桌椅實用,冰淇淋只裝在無標籤的紙杯裡。他們儘量把資金與心血投資在產品而不是在它的表面上, 節省的成本就以超大份量回饋給客人!

The driving concept at Beimen Pineapple Ice is affordable quality. They use the simplest possible ingredients and methods, and their shop is as stripped-down and minimalist as you can possibly get. The whitewashed walls are completely bare, the furniture is strictly utilitarian, and the ice cream is served in simple paper cups. They invest as much as possible in the product over the presentation, and the savings are passed on to the consumer in the form of enormous servings!    

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冰淇淋本身跟店家環境一樣簡約,根據店員說的,每款口味以簡簡單單的三四種原料組成的,就是主料加水跟糖粉而已,比如鳳梨冰就是新鮮鳳梨加糖跟水,綠豆是豆子加糖跟水等等。

The product itself is as minimalist as the shop. According to the owners, every flavour is a simple mixture of sugar and water, plus the main ingredient. Pineapple ice is just pineapple, sugar and water; green bean is just green bean, sugar and water, etc.

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他們只有六款全年不變的口味,堅持用全年供應的蔬果(比較季節性的蔬果可以大量購買再冷凍保存),主要是當地產品,可是菜單上有一個很典型的冰品找不到,就是芒果口味!店員覺得很多名店的芒果冰品做得很好,不要跟他們競爭比較好,可以把焦點放在他們自己的特色上,目前供應的口味只有鳳梨、芋頭、綠豆、花生、李鹹以及荔枝。因為冰淇淋沒有添加乳化劑跟增稠劑,所以它很容易分開,因此店員要不斷的用刮刀把冰攪拌來保持口感和味道的均勻,不然糖分會漸漸地沉澱下來,蠻費力的。這才是真正的手工冰淇淋嘍!

They only make six flavours, and they stick with ingredients that are available year-round (or can be bought in bulk and frozen during peak season). Mango is not on the menu – they prefer to stick with flavours with less arbitrary competition: pineapple, taro, green bean, peanut, salty plum, and lychee. Because the ice contains no emusifiers or thickeners, it’s prone to natural separation. The staff are constantly stirring the ice by hand to prevent the sugars from settling to the bottom and keep the texture and flavour smooth and even. I love how low-tech it is!

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店員很大方,他們請客人試吃時不用小小的試吃湯匙而是一般的湯匙,冰淇淋又挖得滿滿的,我都還沒點好冰淇淋已經快吃飽了!

They’re super generous with samples – they use a soup spoon instead of a little tasting spoon! I must have eaten half a cup of ice cream before I even made my order.

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芋頭冰一吃就愛上,毫無猶豫把它點下來,當然還要點招牌鳳梨冰吃吃看。

The taro ice was love at first bite, so of course we ordered it, along with their signature pineapple ice.

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我認為這是我寫這個部落格期間吃過分量最大的冰淇淋,比⌈船來芋頭冰⌋還要大,價格則是最低的,才NT$45而已,超誇張!

This is the biggest serving of ice cream I’ve ever had on this blog (even bigger than Boat Come, I think), and the price is also one of the lowest – only NT$45!

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芋頭冰特別濃郁,因為只是帶甜的芋頭,沒有加牛奶淡化芋頭的味道,嘗起來很像芋頭做的精緻雪酪,甜度剛剛好,味道純粹天然,總之跟一般用牛奶做的芋頭冰很不一樣。它的口感很特別,濃厚綿密,厚到我不得不問店員這款有沒有添加增稠劑,他們說口感全然是芋頭的天然澱粉來的,芋頭冰只有三個原料:當地芋頭、糖、和白開水。這個芋頭冰純到你可以吃得出來春天與夏天芋頭的差別(據店員說的,春天雨水多,所以芋頭會吸收很多水,味道因此淡化了些,夏天的芋頭比較乾,味道比較濃)。

The taro ice is incredibly thick and rich. Without milk softening the flavour, it’s like a luxurious taro sorbet. I thought it must have some thickeners in it to get such a rich texture, but they assured me it’s just the natural starch in the taro. The only ingredients in the ice are fresh locally-grown taro root, sugar, and water. It’s so pure you can apparently taste the difference between spring and summer taro (apparently spring rains saturate the taro and make it less flavourful!).

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鳳梨冰因為不含任何天然或人工的澱粉、脂肪、乳化/增稠劑等,所以偏稀,口感接近冰沙或溶雪而不像冰淇淋、雪酪,這就是這種冰品的典型風格。剛挖出來的時候它冰冰的,要等它稍微融化讓酸酸甜甜的鳳梨汁才會流出來再攪一攪。裡面還吃得到小碎塊鳳梨果肉,吃起來很新鮮!

The pineapple ice is quite thin and slushy, but that’s standard for this style of ice, since it contains no natural or added thickeners, fats, or starches. It starts out quite icy, but as it melts all the sweet pineapple juice runs to the bottom, so it’s best if you wait a minute before you start to eat to let it get a little juicier, and keep stirring it while you eat it. It’s studded with chewy little bits of fresh pineapple.

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招牌鳳梨冰全部是鳳梨冰再加上蜜鳳梨塊和一顆酸梅,充滿台灣鳳梨的好滋味!

The signature pineapple ice is topped with sweet marinated pineapple and a preserved plum, bursting with Taiwanese pineapple flavour!

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綠豆冰帶有很天然的綠豆香味,料的比例調到剛剛好,不太甜,也不會”太健康”。綠豆的天然澱粉給這款冰淇淋帶來跟芋頭冰差不多濃厚的口感。

The green bean ice has an authentic bean-y flavour that’s perfectly balanced, not too “healthy-tasting” or too sweet. With the natural starches from the beans, it’s almost as thick and dense as the taro.

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李鹹冰也是冰沙口感的冰,用傳統酸甜鹹香蜜餞做的,我超愛李鹹的獨特味道,味道豐富、多層次,但很清爽,很適合夏天吃!

The salty plum is another slushy-textured ice made with traditional sweet-salty-sour preserved plums. I love the taste of these plums – complex and deep, but refreshingly tart. I would love this one in the summer!

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荔枝冰很特別。我曾經寫過真的很好吃的荔枝冰淇淋或雪酪難做、難找,不是太甜就是太冰,因為它需要一定的糖分含量讓口感穩定化順。可是這種類似義大利granita風格的冰比較適合冰冰的口感。雖然我還是覺得它很甜,但不會甜到掩蓋新鮮荔枝的好滋味!

The lychee ice is really nice. I’ve written before about how hard it is to find (or make) a decent lychee sorbet or ice cream, because it tends to turn out either too sweet; if it’s not too sweet, it’s too icy, because there’s not enough sugar to stabilize it. This style of ice is more like a granita, so the iciness works here. I still found it a little on the sweet side, but not sweet enough to overpower the perfumey floral taste of fresh lychee!

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花生口味很濃,超美味,口感也蠻濃厚的,沒有芋頭的黏稠,所以讓它融化一點就很接近冰淇淋或霜淇淋的口感。

The peanut flavour was awesome, really nice and rich, with a texture that’s also nice and dense without being as thick and sticky as the taro. When it melts a little bit, the texture is more like a standard ice cream or soft-serve.

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我在⌈北門鳳梨冰⌋非常欣賞簡單樸實的美食與氣氛,在這裡可以享受很道地當地台灣味道與傳統做法,不僅是很多對台灣文化好奇的外國人會喜歡,土生土長的台灣人也會享受本店的懷念古早味。我很期待把這家店介紹給更多國內外朋友!

I really enjoyed the simplicity of the food and the atmosphere at Beimen Pineapple Ice. It’s the perfect place for both curious foreigners and nostalgic Taiwanese to enjoy a taste of local flavour prepared in the local style. I’m looking forward to introducing more of my local and foreign friends to this place!

北門鳳梨冰 | Beimen Pineapple Ice 

地址: 台北市大安區忠孝東路四段216巷33弄9號
電話: 
02 2711 8862
時間: 
週二至週日12:00~21:30 (週一公休)

Address: No. 9, Alley 33, Lane 216, Section 4, Zhongxiao E Rd, Da’an District, Taipei City
Phone: 02 2711 8862
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday 12:00~21:30 (closed Mondays)

 

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